Where to Have the Time of Your Life and Still Come Home Rested

I have this fairly uncomplicated travel fantasy. It goes like this: I go on vacation, have fun, relax and come home restored. Not exactly groundbreaking, I know. And yet I can count on one hand the times I’ve actually returned home feeling refreshed and ready to reenter city life. There’s inevitably something: a delayed flight, lost luggage, the friend who needs to party every night and the other one who insists on nonstop sightseeing.

So this year, I made it my mission to find out: Is true vacation rejuvenation actually possible? And if so, where? And how?

The answer is yes. And the place to finally strike that rare balance between activity and rest is Trancoso, Brazil. Located in the state of Bahia, Trancoso highlights hallmarks of Brazil’s culture —the vibrancy, the dancing, the spirituality—without the expectation that you’ll never sleep. From elite resorts to boutique pousadas (inns) and beach clubs, there’s something for every traveler here, and none of it comes at the expense of fun or rest.

Take a horseback ride right on the beach. Swim laps in one of the pools at Fasano Trancoso, from one of Brazil’s most celebrated hotel groups. Eat an unhurried dinner then dance outside one of the bars lining the quadrado. Whatever you do, you won’t be doing too much.

Trancoso is tailor-made for both sides of you: the one that wants to experience a new culture and have a good time, and the one that wants a tan and no under-eye bags on the flight home.

Where to Stay

You’ll have plenty of time to relax in Trancoso—but first, Rio. Flights from the U.S. to Brazil are long, so make the most of your trip by building in a stopover.

Copacabana Palace, A Belmond Hotel, Rio de Janeiro is the kind of place that lives up to its name. The 1923 French Riviera–inspired property delivers a glamorous, see-and-be-seen pool, a ballroom with a wall of fame worth lingering over and a sprawling breakfast buffet. Don’t leave the check-in desk without a welcome beverage—choose from options like cachaça with passion fruit or a cold maté.

From Rio, a short flight brings you to Porto Seguro. From there, it’s about an hour and a half by taxi to Trancoso. Plan for the journey to eat up most of your day, and have your hotel arrange a pickup from the airport so you're not scrambling on arrival.

The trek is worth it. Originally a quiet fishing village founded by Jesuits in the 16th century, Trancoso was transformed by hippies in the 1970s and has been quietly enchanting visitors ever since. Today it’s anchored by the quadrado, a generously sized town square lined with restaurants and boutiques, all watched over by Paróquia São João Batista, a church perched dramatically above the ocean.

Travelers who want to dip in and out of the action on their own terms can book Fasano Trancoso, a sprawling resort with multiple pools, a spa, a beach club and two restaurants. Fair warning: You will be tempted never to leave. But you must. The default assumption here is that basking is enough, but the staff is warm and genuinely helpful, so speak up if you want to explore.

Eat and Drink

In Trancoso, breakfast at Fasano is a colorful spread of fruits, meats, breads and baked goods. In the evening, venture into the quadrado. Stop at Tapioca da Elma for a beiju de tapioca, a traditional Bahian stuffed crêpe. For a proper sit-down, Silvana & Cia is the place for moqueca, a regional fish stew with a vegetarian version available. Capim Santo, one of the town’s pousadas, focuses on local ingredients, Flô has a tasty burger and Muru is the move for a low-key drink.

For an adventurous meal, arrange a car and reservation for Floresta, set inside an old rubber tree plantation in the middle of the forest. Chef Dona Jandira serves a truly out-of-this-world weekend lunch; the story goes that the restaurant’s owner originally hired Jandira as his family’s personal cook, until he realized keeping her talent to himself was a genuine shame and opened a restaurant with her instead. It was a very good decision.

And on your way in through Rio, dinner at Braseiro da Gávea is a must. Order the house steak with sides for the table, and don’t skip the farofa de banana, a traditional dish of toasted cassava flour with banana and sautéed onions that you sprinkle onto the meat.

Things to Do

Schedule your Rio layover for a Monday, when the weekly samba party at Pedra do Sal, a tiny alleyway in the historic Saúde neighborhood, is in full swing. Book a samba tour through Chase Travel for a night of caipirinhas, dancing and history. Legend has it a high priestess named Tia Ciata helped ease restrictions on samba and other gatherings in the Afro-Brazilian community; don’t leave without finding her mural. Before your night out, take a taxi to the Jardim Botânico, where a road lined with giant trees will briefly transport you somewhere closer to Paris—until you spot the monkeys.

In Trancoso, set up at Tartarugas, El Gordo or Almar beach clubs for the day, then arrange a horseback ride along the shore to watch the sun go down. For a deeper connection to Bahia’s culture, make the 30-minute trip to Candomblé Spiritual Center—for 250 reais, or about $50, you can undergo a ceremony and be assigned two personal deities, known as orishas.

How to Go Big

Getting to Brazil involves more than booking a flight and hotel: You’ll need a visa first. A visa application service can help expedite the process, and an electronic visa can arrive within days. In Trancoso, taxi rates vary, so befriend a local driver and get their number. Finally, tap payment is widely accepted throughout Brazil, so use your Sapphire Reserve to earn 3x points on dining worldwide.