This Former Monastery Is One of the Most Romantic Hotels in Tuscany

Stay Here For

The chance to step into a quainter, quieter version of Italy, just 20 minutes outside Florence.

If the friars who originally lived on the grounds of Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel, Florence could see the place now, they would be shocked: In stark contrast to their ascetic accommodations, guests today enjoy a garden of worldly delights—especially now that the property is unveiling a transformative renovation.

Dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, the villa dates to the early 15th century, when the noble Davanzati family entrusted it to an order of Franciscans. Over the centuries that followed, it expanded and changed hands several times, eventually landing, in the 1950s, with a French owner who decided to open it as a hotel. Today, Villa San Michele feels lively and inviting, thanks to the varied culinary options, contemporary art installations and events like concerts and calligraphy workshops.

Now, following an 18-month closure for a significant refresh, the hotel is getting ready to reopen in April. It’s just one of Belmond’s many historic hotels that have received recent renovations and updates; in this case, the restyling focused mainly on the guest rooms, while most of the public spaces have been left untouched.

Though Villa San Michele is only a 20-minute drive from the center of Florence, it feels more like a resort than a typical city hotel.

Its extensive tiered gardens, which were redeveloped with new hidden nooks, fresh lookouts and the reintroduction of Renaissance-era blooms during the renovation, offer an abundance of quiet corners and breathtaking views just calling out for a romantic tête-à-tête. Irises, roses and potted citrus trees beloved by the Medicis now complement the massive wisteria vine that snakes across the villa’s east-facing façade.

The renovation has also added a new Guerlain spa and a partnership with Milan-based designer J.J. Martin, who custom-designed spaces and created a program of mindfulness-enhancing experiences, such as yoga, breath work and sound healing.

There are plenty of lounge chairs by the pool and solarium, so you’ll never have to vie for a spot. And with three restaurants and two bars offering a range of dining options, from gourmet fine dining to poolside pizzas, meals never feel crowded either, which is certainly part of the appeal.

For the hotel’s staff, no request is too big or too small, whether you need sunscreen by the pool or want to orchestrate an elaborate proposal with dozens of roses and a private dinner in the garden.

Though it might be tempting to spend your entire vacation on the property, the concierge has strong connections in Florence and elsewhere in Tuscany. The hotel’s experiences range from a guided tour of the city’s apothecaries to a calligraphy workshop with a local artist.

After spending time in busy Florence, you’ll likely be relieved to escape the crowds and cocoon yourself away in this enchanting hotel and its peaceful gardens.

The Essentials

The Location

Villa San Michele sits on a hill in Fiesole, a village about 20 minutes from the center of Florence that has drawn artists and intellectuals for centuries. Leonardo da Vinci, for one, first attempted flight from the woodlands near the hotel. For travelers who want to explore the city, a complimentary shuttle is available.

The Bars and Restaurants

Aptly located in the monastery’s open-air gallery, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, Antesi, has tasting menus that showcase chef Alessandro Cozzolino’s take on modern Italian cuisine. Adjacent is Ristorante San Michele, which takes a more traditional approach, championing slow-food ingredients that make the most of the local, seasonal produce. The tartare, for example, is served with prized Tuscan Chianina beef, pecorino cheese and truffles foraged in the nearby countryside. Located near the pool, San Michele Grill is perfect for a wood-fired pizza and other light dishes. Bar Doccia Villa San Michele is where you’ll want to start or end the evening. Its outdoor seating in the garden is especially popular for a sunset aperitivo.

The Room

The pure Italian cotton sheets enhance all the rooms.

The rooms and suites have all gotten a glam upgrade by a Florentine architecture firm known for designing luxury hotels and exclusive residences. Inside, guests will find plush rugs softening up the original terra-cotta floors, 19th-century antiques and neoclassical tapestries that subtly nod to the property’s history. Plush bathrobes embroidered with the hotel’s logo and soft 100% Italian cotton sheets by heritage brand Rivolta Carmignani are just some of the luxe touches you’ll find in the rooms, in addition to Nespresso machines and minibars with complimentary soft drinks. Bathrooms have been revamped with new fixtures, finishes and plenty of Cipollino and Calacatta marble sourced from the Apuan Alps in Tuscany.

Of the 39 rooms and suites, 15 are in the monastery and 24 are spread across the grounds. If you want an outdoor terrace, be sure to request a room in the gardens; rooms in the monastery lack outdoor space. The crème de la crème is the Limonaia Suite, a stand-alone villa in the gardens comprising two floors. Some rooms require you to climb up and down somewhat narrow outdoor stairs, so if you have mobility issues, be sure to mention that when booking, so the staff can find an appropriate room for you.

The Standout Feature

The villa’s tiered gardens lend themselves to sunset strolls.

There are few things better than a pool with a view, and this one, located on the highest point of the property, boasts breathtaking panoramas of Tuscany’s rolling hills. There are also nice touches like playing cards and sunscreen, and every now and then the staff comes around to offer cold water.

The Time to Go

The hotel closes in winter and typically reopens around Easter. Peak season is July and August. Go at the beginning or end of the season for lower rates and fewer people, though even in July you won’t notice how full it is because there’s so much space for guests to spread out.

The Vibe

The pool is so well integrated into the surrounding hills, it’s possible to forget where the hotel ends and the countryside begins.

The highly specific reason you’d come here: To pop the question. It’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting, and the hotel’s team is always prepared to facilitate a private dinner, a bouquet of flowers and a bottle of bubbly to celebrate.

What are you packing? Flowy white linen tops, chinos, starched button-downs; perhaps a cashmere sweater to drape over your shoulders once the sun sets.

The perfect spot for your social media post: Under the arches of Ristorante San Michele with the Duomo in the background, or by the wisteria clinging to the villa.

Are guests staying in or going out? This is the kind of place where you’re likely to come with ambitious plans to visit Florence’s museums and monuments, then cancel them all and spend the day relaxing by the pool and in the gardens instead.

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