This Jungle Resort Is Home To Costa Rica’s Largest Thermal Spring Complex

Stay Here For

The ultimate version of “me time” in Costa Rica’s largest network of natural thermal springs.

It’s rare that a vacation is actually enhanced by rain, but here we are—“here” being Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa, nestled in 900 acres of protected rainforest near Arenal Volcano National Park. The rain, which occurs almost daily, creates a soothing patter as it falls on forest foliage so thick it obscures the ground below, and it’s best experienced while swaying lazily in the hanging lounge bed suspended above your balcony. Between the earthy scent and the verdant views, it’s like a spa soundtrack come to life, inspiring an immediate desire to pause and “be here now.”

This used to be a rural area with more cattle than people. But in the 1980s, Costa Rican architect Jaime Mikowski purchased marshland near the base of the volcano, which was crisscrossed by a network of thermal springs. He landscaped around the springs; added a day spa, restaurant and pool complex; and opened Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa in 1993. Now the property is an oasis, its rooms, swimming pools and restaurants a short walk away from the network of natural thermal pools and the adjacent spa (both of which are open to nonguests). Tabacón is also a handy launchpad for a slate of nature-based attractions and activities, including La Fortuna Waterfall and traversing the treetops on hanging bridges. 

Families visit during the school holidays. But there’s a year-round cohort of wellness-minded couples, solo (mostly female) travelers and friend groups (again, mostly female) who come here to connect with each other—and themselves—in an Edenic environment that facilitates both.

Much of the time, they’re at the jungle spa, set amid thriving palms and a colorful riot of heliconia. Arrive at least 30 minutes before your treatment to soak in the hot tub, then make your way to an open-air bungalow (there are only nine, so pre-arrival reservations are recommended) for a muscle-melting rubdown. You can’t go wrong with the pineapple body scrub paired with a deep-tissue massage, performed to that aforementioned soundtrack of steady rain and tropical birdsong.

The Essentials

The Rooms

Each room, including the Private Pool Suite pictured here, is sleek and modern, with furniture made of local hardwood.

There are 105 rooms in six categories (from entry-level Orchid Rooms up to the premium Two Bedroom Arenal Suite), each with jungle, garden or volcano views. They’re uniformly sleek and modern, with tile floors, bold botanical-themed art and furniture made of local hardwood so distinctly fragrant you smell it the moment you walk through the door.

The Orchid Rooms are spacious and feature pebble-floor showers, which open up to the room. They don’t have outdoor living spaces, however, so if that’s a priority, consider booking either a Rainforest Room (with a freestanding soaking tub and terrace) or a Private Pool Suite. All four of the latter have volcano views and their own plunge pool (fed by spring water, naturally). Fun fact: All the hot water in the rooms comes directly from the thermal springs, so guests reap the purported health benefits of the mineralized water every time they shower.

The Bars and Restaurants

On the hotel side, Tucanes Restaurant is an all-day, open-air poolside spot with a thatched roof and volcano views that serves a buffet breakfast in the mornings. At dinnertime, candlelit tables make the terra-cotta–tiled space feel more intimate (yet still informal), with both an à la carte menu (go for the Caribbean chowder) and two different seven-course tasting menus offering authentic local flavor. Over at the thermal pools, Ave Restaurant serves casual Costa Rican fare, including a delicious Caribbean-style chicken breast with rice and beans.

Quench your thirst at any of four watering holes, which include the adults-only Shangri-La Gardens at the thermal springs, the swim-up Agua Ardiente Pool Bar, Caña Brava lobby bar and Bosque Bar, where you can expect cocktails like the Smoky Volcano, a delightful concoction of tequila, mezcal, orange, pineapple, coconut and smoked cinnamon.

The Standout Feature

The thermal pools vary in temperature, culminating in the 100-degree pool near the adults-only Shangri-La Gardens area.

The thermal pools at Tabacón make up Costa Rica’s largest network of natural hot springs, but that’s not the only reason they’re special. Surrounded by tropical foliage and a thriving jungle canopy, and connected by curving paths and ornamental bridges, they contain mineralized water that is naturally heated to temperatures around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s crystal clear and, because it has such a low percentage of sulfur, completely odorless. You’ll want to spend an entire day here, working your way down from the hottest pools (adjacent to Shangri-La Gardens, the adults-only area exclusively for hotel guests) to the swim-up pool bar, Agua Ardiente. Complimentary canvas cabanas and loungers secreted behind a stand of birds-of-paradise are the perfect base for this heavenly experience.

The Location

Arenal’s greatest sights, including waterfalls and the namesake volcano, are a quick drive from the property.

The property is tucked into 900 acres of protected rainforest near the town of La Fortuna, the gateway to Costa Rica’s Arenal Volcano National Park. The surrounding area is widely considered to be Costa Rica’s adventure capital, and Tabacón’s vast jungle sprawl—with only a third of its acreage yet developed—is a luxurious home base for it all. Tabacón’s thermal pools are a two-minute drive away in the complimentary hotel shuttle, but it’s not uncommon to see guests clad in robes hoofing it for the 10-minute walk. Several of the region’s most popular attractions, including La Fortuna Waterfalls and Arenal Volcano and lake, are 20 minutes by car. For a taste of the region’s take on city life, La Fortuna is a 15-minute drive away.

The Time to Go

Given Tabacón’s tropical rainforest location, there’s no escaping showers entirely here. But the weather is driest between December and April and coolest between November and January. Expect hot, rainy conditions in September and October.

The Vibe

The Screwball Espresso Tini, made with peanut butter whiskey, is best enjoyed poolside.

What are people drinking? The iced Screwball Espresso Tini, made with peanut butter whiskey (yes!), local coffee liqueur and espresso; it’s a guaranteed eye-opener.

The design detail you won’t stop coveting: Suspended from the ceiling of many rooms is a metal pendant lamp that looks like a stylized sombrero. They’re made exclusively for the hotel and not available for sale, but that won’t stop you from wanting your own.

The perfect place for your social media post: It would be criminal to come here and not capture a shot sitting pretty beneath one of the many (many) waterfalls that tumble dramatically into the thermal pools.

The not-so-secret spot everyone’s talking about: The Ephemeral Table is a candlelit private dining experience for two to 10 people, hosted in one of two thatched-roof bungalows tucked into the resort’s foliage. Although food preferences and restrictions are taken into account, the six-course menu with wine and beer pairings is a surprise, created by a chef who prepares everything in front of you in the bungalow’s open kitchen.

The souvenir from the gift shop you’re bringing home: Free shipping and easy assembly make the handsome, handcrafted wood-and-leather rocking chairs in The Britt Shop a must-buy.

A visit to Tabacón is all about getting in the water—and it’s easy to do between the property’s two main pools and the nearby thermal pools.

Everything Else