Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens: A Glamorous Beach Retreat From the Greek Capital

Stay Here For

A vacation that’s the best of both worlds: easy access to the Athens city center with a Greek island feel.

In an area known for opulence, Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens is a standout among standouts in the Athens Riviera, a 35-mile stretch of coastline. And that’s thanks, in part, to its prime location in Vouliagmeni, a tree-lined neighborhood that first garnered attention in the 1960s as a vacation hot spot for international movie stars and savvy politicos. Back then, it served the world’s elite, and today, it maintains its top-tier reputation, hosting the summer estates of wealthy Athenians and a clutch of upscale beach clubs.

Think of it as the Hamptons of Athens: a grand escape from a crowded, chaotic city.

As you drive toward the hotel along the Lemos peninsula, a pristine sweep of southward-bound coastline, crowds of pine trees begin to fall away, ultimately revealing the sparkling blue ribbon of the Riviera. Here, the crystalline water is even more dazzling at night, when yachts dock and illuminate the sea’s soft sapphire waves.

It’s enough to distract you until, after several minutes, you finally reach your destination. Rising from its post, the hotel blends seamlessly with the coastal surroundings, with its bone-white buildings set alongside the sea. From the moment you step from your chauffeured car and through the large glass doors, you’ll understand why travelers from around the world—including multigenerational families and couples—happily return, year after year.

In the center of the property, the hotel’s Nafsika building—guest room wings are all named—stands stark white against the cobalt skies, and from its lobby (and rooms) you’ll spot boats and kayaks bobbing in the sea. At ground level, a promenade wraps around the waterfront, past a pair of pools and open-air dining rooms to Bungalow Beach, a cozy cove that’s outfitted with cabanas and beach chairs, but rarely attracts crowds.

When you’re not exploring Athens on quick day trips (the city is an easy 30-minute drive away), the hotel also offers plenty to do, from sunset yoga followed by wine tasting on the hotel’s promenade to sound baths and mat Pilates. Or, if you don’t want to lift a finger, you can spend your days here lounging and swimming in the sea, with a list of commitments only a spa treatment or two long.

The property’s true mastery over luxury, however, might be best exemplified by its service, where staff greet you by name and are eager to assist you with reservations, luggage handling and golf cart rides around the property. In its earliest days, the hotel may have served a select celebrity clientele—but now, during its modern-day revival, every guest is a VIP.

The Essentials

The Room

The Arion building’s Sea-View Rooms are especially picturesque.

Guest rooms are distributed across three settings. You’ll find water views from them all in Nafsika, hewn from limestone boulders hanging over the sea; two of its five room types also have private pools, making them a good fit for families.

Over in Arion, choices range from pine- or sea-view rooms to spacious junior and one-bedroom suites. Furnished balconies and stand-alone soaking tubs—positioned next to floor-to-ceiling windows, of course—round out many of the rooms, all of which offer a secret bonus: a television in the bathroom mirror.

The most private of the three accommodations, the Bungalows are tucked away in a secluded location that follows the original bungalow plan from the 1960s. They’re accessible from the beach by way of lavender- and sage-lined paths, and suites with their own pool or terrace feel more like private villas.

Though each accommodation type has its perks and quirks, the hotel has worked to streamline certain parts of the guest experience across the three buildings. The aesthetic throughout is modern and clean, with a spare white-and-sand color palette, honey-hued wooden furniture and floors, and decor that subtly nods to the property’s history, like old black-and-white photographs or thick tomes on antiquities. In the marble bathrooms, guests can expect freestanding tubs, double vanities and rosemary- and lavender-scented Diptyque products.

The Bars and Restaurants

It may not be possible to try each of the hotel’s eight bars and restaurants over the course of your trip. But here’s your cheat sheet: Start with an outdoor breakfast in the greenery-covered dining rooms at Mercato or Taverna 37, where you’ll indulge in decadent, practically Dionysian spreads of goji berries, pomegranates, fresh honeycomb and sesame seed koulouri bread rings. In the afternoon, don’t miss the Peruvian ceviche (made with fresh sea bass) and pibil chicken tacos in the breezy dining room at Helios, the hotel’s Latin American restaurant, which is open for both lunch and dinner.

Plan to spend at least one evening dining seaside at Pelagos, the hotel’s restaurant where chef Luca Piscazzi incorporates playful Greek touches into international cuisine—yellowtail ceviche with mint, rabbit paired with lobster and eggplant—all presented on gorgeous Greek serveware. After-hours, sip on a classic mai tai at Avra Bar or hop over to Astron for an Aries spritz (Aperol, rose and champagne).

The Standout Feature

You’ll spot the Aegean Sea views from just about every corner of the property, including your spa treatment room.

Athens Spa, which includes a hammam, the hotel’s indoor pool, a hot tub, a steam room and a sauna. Many treatment rooms have sea views (so you don’t have to miss a moment of the Aegean), outdoor relaxation areas and bathtubs. Spa treatments are just as good as the views, with specialized full-body massages and facials that use local ingredients like lavender, almond oil and aloe.

The Location

Located in Vouliagmeni, an affluent suburb just 30 minutes from Athens’s city center (on traffic-free days, anyway), the hotel’s position on the Athens Riviera is far enough away from the city’s crowds, yet close enough for quick day trips. There’s also luxury shopping just a five-minute golf cart ride away over at the newly constructed Astir Marina, and off-property swimming at Astir Beach and Lake Vouliagmeni.

The Time to Go

You can enjoy the Athens Riviera year-round: The area’s Mediterranean climate means hot summers and cooler, dry winters. But if swimming in the Aegean is your top priority, you’ll want to book your trip for sometime between May and September—peak season, that is—when temperatures are high and the water is warm. If splashing around is secondary, plan your visit for the shoulder season, from October to April, for a crowd-free stay that’ll feel like you have the place to yourself.

The Vibe

Relax by the ocean in one of the cabanas that line the hotel’s promenade.

The best place to hang with the family: The waters at Zolotas Private Beach are extremely shallow, making it an excellent place for children of all ages to swim. The kids can spend the afternoon perfecting their doggy paddles while you enjoy a spritz from the comfort of an umbrella-shaded beach chair.

What you’ll brag about when you get home: That you vacationed in the footsteps of starlets and politicians, including a certain First Lady known for her trendsetting pillbox hats and face-framing sunnies.

The local spot everyone’s talking about: Lake Vouliagmeni, a turquoise lagoon turned wellness retreat. The sizable lake is surrounded by a cavernous rock formation that can be enjoyed while dipping in its thermal waters. You’ll find local couples and families here, lounging on beach chairs in the sun or restoring themselves with a swim.

How to treat yourself: Peruse caftans, accessories, books and beauty products from local Greek brands and international mainstays at the hotel’s on-site boutiques. You can also ask a bellhop to transport you from the hotel to Astir Marina for even more designer shopping.

Everything Else