Inside Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, Where Presidents and Royals Have Vacationed in Cape Town

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A Cape Town visit that follows in the footsteps of British royals, U.S. presidents and generations of cultural icons.

Cape Town has plenty of luxury hotels, but Belmond’s Mount Nelson is arguably the most famous. Ideally located in the heart of the city, it’s played host to British royals, U.S. presidents and far too many writers, actors and musicians to name here.

The Nellie, as the hotel is known, has also long been at the forefront of innovation—in 1899, for example, it became the first hotel in South Africa to offer both hot and cold running water. Still, much of the property has remained charmingly unchanged over the past century, such as the façade, which was painted a pink hue in celebration of the end of World War I in 1918.

In this way, the hotel manages to embrace contemporary design and modern amenities while still honoring its past. The Nellie stays relevant through regular updates, including refreshed rooms and suites, plus modern dining options, including new additions under the Belmond chain’s more recent ownership, French powerhouse LVMH.

The property and its grounds are so spectacular you won’t want to leave, but with wineries a short drive away in Stellenbosch and penguin spotting at Boulders Beach, there’s much to see and do in South Africa’s Western Cape. The Belmond team can arrange it all, or you can drive yourself around the region, taking advantage of the included valet parking when you return.

The Essentials

The Location

While the hotel’s tranquil environment makes it feel far removed from the city, pass through the main gate and you’ll be in the heart of Cape Town, with restaurants, bars and boutiques a short walk away. The hotel also offers a complimentary shuttle to the V&A Waterfront, a bustling tourist-friendly neighborhood around the harbor. It takes about 20 minutes to get here from the airport—taxis and Ubers are plentiful, or you can book a car in advance through the hotel.

The Rooms

Guest rooms are classic and spacious, with bright, natural light; desks or sitting areas; and plush, comfortable beds. Since they’re spread across seven sections of the hotel—some are connected to the main building, while others are a short walk away—finding your room may take some effort. The front desk will provide a property map, and the staff will happily show you to your room (take them up on the guided tour).

Though most of the buildings have been painted pink, the Helmsley Hotel wing is required to maintain its white exterior. A protected building and the former home of South Africa’s first Jewish congregation, it now functions as the hotel’s pet-friendly wing. Dogs and cats are welcome as long as they’re well behaved and kept on a leash (yes, even cats—with the exception of Nellie, Mount Nelson’s free-range feline-in-residence).

Superior Rooms are the base category, which still come with a large desk, and most have a private balcony plus a view of the city or Table Mountain. You can even get one with a shower-tub combo if you prefer that to a shower stall; just ask in advance. For a separate living room and a guaranteed mountain view, opt for a One Bedroom Suite on a higher floor, or one of the property’s ground-floor cottages.

All rooms include amenities from Cape Town–based Charlotte Rhys, and guests can call housekeeping to order extras like alternative pillows and fragrance sachets (like lavender and chamomile) from the sleep concierge.

The Bars and Restaurants

Oasis restaurant offers a large indoor dining room, or patio seating with a view of the main pool.

Most of the hotel’s restaurants are located in The Nellie’s historic main building, with its grand chandeliers. Also here: the hidden Lord Nelson game room, which has chess tables and billiards surrounded by burgundy fleurs-de-lis and mahogany-clad walls.

Dining options are a mix of old and new. Breakfast is included at Oasis, and it’s an absolute stunner, with a robust buffet offering juices and sparkling wine, cold meats and smoked fish, and more pastries than you’d find at most French patisseries. From the hot dishes, the eggs Benedict is a knockout. It’s served with your choice of ham, salmon or spinach on a freshly made English muffin with a perfectly poached egg and lemony hollandaise.

Don’t miss afternoon tea, which is served in The Lounge just off the main lobby. And guests up for dinner and a show should book a spot at Chef’s Table, a five-course feast of local ingredients and optional wine pairings in the hotel’s main kitchen alcove. Also be sure to check out The Red Room, a dimly lit underground restaurant and lounge serving Asian-inspired dishes such as fresh oysters with Thai green curry and a half or whole roast duck, served with clay pot rice and Mandarin pancakes.

The Standout Feature

The Nellie’s most exclusive restaurant, Chef’s Table, which serves up to 15 guests each night in a dining room in the middle of the main kitchen. After a welcome glass of bubbles, the chef prepares each course just a few steps away. Dishes can be paired with wine—everything from crisp chenin blancs to hearty merlots are produced just a few miles up the road. The meal runs about three hours from start to finish and will easily become one of the most memorable experiences of your Cape Town trip.

The Time to Go

Cape Town is in the Southern Hemisphere, so visit during their warm season, between November and March, for the best weather. The remaining months bring cooler temperatures and a higher chance of rain, but with lower rates at top hotels, fall and winter can be a great value for budget-conscious travelers.

The Vibe

What are you packing? The heated pools are a main attraction, so definitely pack a swimsuit if you’re visiting in the warmer months. Shorts are a common sight at breakfast and lunch, but you’ll want slacks or a dress for dinner—plus, the evenings can be quite cool in Cape Town, even during the summer.

What are people drinking? Sparkling wine at breakfast, loose-leaf tea in The Lounge and wine pairings at dinner—with an abundant selection of local wines at your disposal, this is the perfect place to try something new.

The family-friendly amenity that’s really for the parents: The Children’s Club. While parents enjoy some grown-up time, guests aged 3 to 12 can hang at The Nellie’s supervised clubhouse, where activities range from group games to storytelling.

You wouldn’t know unless you went: During the warmer months, the staff stops by the hotel’s pools with complimentary treats (like a post-lunch cup of frozen custard) throughout the afternoons. Guests also have access to the spa’s steam bath, plunge pool and sauna at no charge.

Many elements remain charmingly unchanged over the last century—the hotel’s façade was painted pink to celebrate the end of World War I in 1918.

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