David Chang’s Quest for Better Airport Food: “People Want More Extravagance Than I Thought Was Possible”

When chef David Chang first brought his legendary Momofuku restaurant to Las Vegas, he knew the food would need to be “bigger, bolder, louder” than ever before, a next-level experience fit for travelers expecting neon-lit, over-the-top everything. And when he was tasked with translating his cuisine to the newest Chase Sapphire Lounge by The Club, the dishes still had to dazzle—even at the city’s international airport.

“People want more extravagance than I thought was possible,” he says of Las Vegas and its insatiable appetite.

Bites created by Chang include a spicy cucumber salad, sidewinder fries with nori salt, avocado toast with spicy chili oil and the iconic Momofuku pork buns.

Adapting the Momofuku concept to the lounge, which opened in December, required a whole new level of inventiveness. Yes, Chang says, there are plenty of Momofuku hits and classics, but there are also novelties you’ll rarely find at his restaurants, in particular, breakfast dishes like the sweet and savory yogurt parfait with miso-maple granola, and an avocado toast topped with spicy chili oil, chopped egg, pickled onion and furikake.

“Diners, especially in Las Vegas, are eating meals at different times,” Chang says. “Eight a.m. might be breakfast to somebody, and it might be dinner to somebody else, so we want to have a little bit of everything” for the Chase Sapphire Lounge.

No matter the time, you can head straight to the champagne parlor—a first for Chase Sapphire Lounges—where glasses of bubbly are served by bar cart beneath a glittering chandelier, and some of the passed bites (think: crispy nori-seasoned sidewinder potatoes) are designed by Chang.

This is also where Momofuku fans can find the chef’s unrivaled chart-topper: steamed pork buns. “It’s like going to see a band you really want to see live,” Chang says, “and you hope they play their one big hit.” He notes the handheld snack “works out great” for the lounge.

Of course, Chang says, there were plenty of special considerations for the lounge menu. Unlike a restaurant, there’s no wood-burning oven or rotisserie. And determining “exactly what people are going to want” while traveling is no small feat.

He says travelers here are probably looking for one of a few things: a place to get some work done, to unwind or to get a nice bite to eat. For Chang, the airport lounge is nothing short of a lifesaver when he’s traveling with his two young kids.

Sip glasses of bubbly and sparkling cocktails at the intimate champagne parlor upstairs.

Their love of the check-in process and even the ride to the airport is a reminder that seemingly mundane things can still be joyful, if done right. That’s the intention of the two-story Chase Sapphire Lounge, where guests can elbow up to the bar for a signature cocktail and experience playful Momofuku adaptations.

And a memorable meal can make extra time at the airport feel rewarding. That’s why lounge food has to be freshly made and big on flavor. Above all, Chang says, “it can’t look sad.” Maybe your flight’s been delayed, but the sight of a glazed pork belly bun and a spicy cucumber salad helps you “temporarily forget about all your problems.”

One thing you won’t forget is that you’re in Vegas—“arguably the best restaurant capital in America right now,” Chang says—and even if you’re just passing through the airport, you should be able to count on great food.

As for Chang? You might spot him in the lounge, deliberately avoiding the high-speed Wi-Fi, just trying to find a few peaceful moments before his next flight or working on a new endeavor (a forthcoming episode of his show, “Dinner Time Live With David Chang,” a restaurant debut in L.A.’s Century City, continuing to make airport lounge food something everyone wants).

Fortunately, he thrives on staying “infinitely busy” as well as the “strange, uncomfortable” sensation of adding new balls to his juggling act. “I’m always enthralled by the challenge of doing something new,” Chang says. “In fact, I probably am addicted to that feeling.”