Why Tokyo Is Actually a Great Trip for Kids

Whenever I think of Tokyo, the first image that pops into my mind is of my curly blonde, then-3-year-old daughter standing in our booth at a sushi spot beneath Tokyo Station, peering down the conveyor belt in anticipation of a single wasabi-free shrimp nigiri—maybe her fifth or sixth. Though she’d never used a tablet before, she’d gotten the hang of ordering pretty quickly and could hardly contain her excitement each time a piece of sushi zoomed down the stretch and stopped in front of her.

She’d happily poke at it with her own tiny wooden chopsticks (an earlier purchase, too cute to pass up) and eventually eat it with her hands, chasing each “course” with edamame. I felt so proud. Her then-4-month-old sister was in my lap while my husband and I happily ate, and when it came time for a diaper change and feed, we simply walked past a few shops into one of Tokyo’s countless, incredibly convenient and well-equipped nursing rooms, where a comfy chair with arms gave us the privacy and quiet to breastfeed.

Despite its massive size, Tokyo is a clean, safe and peaceful city.

It might be hard to believe that a city of Tokyo’s size (it’s the world’s largest metro area, with some 41 million people) can be so clean, safe and peaceful. But this is a place where there are very few trash cans in public because you’re meant to carry your waste home or to your hotel—and everyone follows the rules. Though not everyone speaks English, Tokyoites will try to be as helpful as they can. And almost every restaurant has not only a high chair but also charming kids’ tableware. In fact, children here are generally adored. We got accustomed to hearing the word “kawaii” (which means “cute”) a lot.

Of course, Tokyo sprawls, and there are seemingly infinite neighborhoods and attractions and restaurants and hotels. But some are really unmissable when traveling with a younger crowd. From a serious dose of green and Shinto shrine magic in the middle of the city to the most entertaining meals and hotels with adorable Japanese pajamas, here are the places in Tokyo that prove why it’s so great for families.

The Main Attractions

Wow your kids with a visit to teamLab Borderless, an immersive, practically psychedelic art museum. (teamLab, Universe of Water Particles on a Rock where People Gather, Flowers and People, Cannot be Controlled but Live Together – A Whole Year per Hour, Crows are Chased and the Chasing Crows are Destined to be Chased as well: Flying Beyond Borders © teamLab)

Wander Through teamLab Borderless and teamLab Planets

Want to absolutely blow your kids’ minds (and your own)? Take them to teamLab Borderless—or teamLab Planets, where you might want to wear shorts since there’s a water element—which is best described as an immersive, at times psychedelic art museum that feels like stepping into another world entirely. You’ll watch flowers bud, bloom then burst before your very eyes; witness frogs dance down a hallway; and stroll through a room strung with seemingly infinite twinkling light bulbs. The experience is nothing if not wondrous, for both little ones and adults, and for what it’s worth, our 4-month-old spent part of the time captivated by the lights and the rest sleeping peacefully on me in the carrier (strollers aren’t allowed inside).

Experience the Shibuya Scramble Crossing

Full of trendy shopping, entertainment and nightlife, Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s can’t-miss neighborhoods.

Shibuya, a youthful hub of trendy shopping, entertainment and nightlife, is one of those energetic eye-candy places that can exist only in a major city. The sidewalks are busy, so yes, you’ll probably want to keep toddlers in a stroller as you walk through, but they’ll love taking it all in. Do brave the famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing, and when it feels like overstimulation has hit its peak, duck into a mall (Miyashita Park has a rooftop play area) or head to the open-air Shibuya Sky observation deck.

Take a Sushi-Making Class

Whether or not your children have eaten sushi or even know what it is, the whole family is in for a lot of fun when you take a private class on how to make it. Look for lessons that engage even the youngest wannabe chefs in the classic Japanese fish preparation and give you all insight into its iconic forms, which can be surprisingly kid-friendly.

Frolic Through Yoyogi Park

The Meiji Jingu shrine is a beautiful example of ancient culture and Shinto architecture.

Even if it’s not springtime, when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, or autumn with its fiery foliage, Yoyogi Park—a133-acre oasis in the middle of Tokyo, close to Harajuku—is like an invitation for kids to be kids. With ample grassy lawns, fragrant floral gardens and soaring trees, it’s a natural playground where little ones can let loose without fear of traffic or crowds getting in the way. Bring a picnic and take a leisurely, magical-feeling romp through the forest and impressively large torii gates to the Meiji Jingu shrine, where you can enjoy a beautiful taste of ancient culture and Shinto architecture.

Dress Like Japanese Characters to Ride Go-Karts

As far as only-in-Japan experiences go, dressing up in a costume to drive a brightly colored go-kart through the city streets is one of the most idiosyncratic—and hilarious. Monkey Adventure Kart offers family-friendly guided tours on Can-Am Ryker karts, though you’ll need one adult with an International Driving Permit per kart, and children must be at least 7 years old and 51 inches tall to ride along.

Say Hi to Dinosaurs at the National Museum of Nature and Science

Free for kids under 18, this large museum is a magnet for curious youngsters. Ooh and aah over dinosaur fossils, a life-size blue whale model, a fallen meteorite and much, much more. There are interactive exhibits, taxidermy specimens of rare fauna, an immersive 360-degree theater and a dedicated play area geared toward kids 6 and younger. Don’t miss the gift shop, and know that the Ueno Zoo and Ueno Park are nearby, too, for a full day of eye-opening fun.

Where to Eat

There’s something for every taste in Tokyo, from chicken katsu and Japanese hamburgers to shabu-shabu and, of course, sushi.

Sushi-Go-Round Kantaro

This casual restaurant in the basement level of Tokyo Station is a crowd-pleaser, not only because of the super-fresh and easily modified sushi, but also the way it’s delivered: via conveyor belt (called kaitenzushi). Ordering on a tablet is a good time for kids, too, and lets them have a bit of autonomy over their meal. Yet another perk: The contactless fashion of your relatively affordable meal means you need not feel sheepish about ordering a dozen shrimp nigiri (without wasabi!) for the kids—there’s no judgement here. And sake pours are generous for the grown-ups.

Mo-Mo-Paradise

Interactive dining is always a hit when young ones are in the mix, and shabu-shabu, a hot pot of broth in which you cook meat and veggies, is no exception. This chain, with a location right in Shinjuku, has an elegant ambience and all-you-can-eat approach, but also a kids menu (and baby chairs), so you’re not leaving anything to chance.

Azabudai Hills Market

This food market in the high-end Azabudai Hills shopping mall is like a dream grocery store, with prolific options for every palate, no matter how sophisticated—or not. There are dozens of fascinating counters dedicated to different Japanese foods, showing the country’s huge culinary range. After teamLab Borderless, we really enjoyed ordering half a dozen items from separate counters—everything from breaded chicken katsu (a hit with our 3-year-old) to a Japanese hamburger steak and charcuterie board—to enjoy picnic-style with craft beers and fresh berries.

Teppan Baby

Featuring fire, tricks with tools and plenty of flashy flair, the Japanese culinary tradition of teppanyaki is wildly entertaining and engaging. And this casual spot in Shinjuku has family-friendly staff, an English menu and skilled chefs (request counter seats for a front-row view of the open kitchen). Plus, the restaurant is very happy to adapt to dietary restrictions, allergies and preferences, which every parent knows goes a long way toward a peaceful meal.

Where to Stay

The whole family will love TRUNK(HOTEL) YOYOGI PARK’s heated rooftop infinity pool. (Photo courtesy of TRUNK/Tomooki Kengaku)

Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo
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You might think a hotel as glamorous as Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo would shun children, but it’s actually quite the opposite—the property welcomes them with gifts (think: puzzles, coloring books, stuffed animals), cute pajamas and in-room tepees. The kids menu is comprehensive and delicious, and there’s even a special children’s Sunday brunch. Note that the stunning indoor pool is open only to those 4 and older, but if you have younger ones (as I did at the time), it’s a gorgeous respite during naptime.

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi
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As a brand, Four Seasons is majorly kid-friendly, and this property provides all the amenities you’d expect while also going above and beyond with cute little PJs, sweet welcome amenities and train views from the guest rooms.

TRUNK(HOTEL) YOYOGI PARK

If you don’t mind a compact hotel room (or want to splurge on the penthouse Owner’s Suite), this boutique hotel, where every tiny detail is thoughtfully considered and beautifully designed, might be the right call. Rooms look out to emerald Yoyogi Park or the city skyline. The hotel has an outdoor heated infinity pool and hot tub (a rarity in Tokyo), and we spent plenty of time swimming and playing there. The pajamas are quite possibly the best in the city, and everyone in our family adored the food.

HOSHINOYA Tokyo

Give your offspring a traditional and indelible hospitality experience at this Japanese-owned “vertical ryokan” in Otemachi, within walking distance of Tokyo Station. Beyond the ridiculously adorable kid-sized pajamas and yukatas (cotton kimonos) left in our room, the hotel stood out for its spacious rooms with tatami mat flooring, communal lounges on each floor stocked with amazing Japanese snacks and rooftop onsen, which my 3-year-old thought was one of the coolest things ever, from the tiny shower stools and steamy soak to the milk served afterward.