How to Celebrate Summer in Sweden

If you’re tired of sweating it out every summer, it’s time to turn your gaze northward—to the endless islands of Stockholm’s archipelago. With a geography that begs to be explored by water and a calendar of events that celebrates the season, Sweden has perfected the recipe for a summer vacation. Looking for more ways to experience Scandinavia? Consider a tour of cosmopolitan Copenhagen.

The Main Attractions

Stockholm and its archipelago offer just the right mood boat, no matter the time of year.

Explore Stockholm's Archipelago by Ferry

As the Stromma ferry to Fjäderholmarna pulled away from the terminal, Stockholm’s landmarks receded into the distance. On the uncovered stern, I closed my eyes and let the sun warm my skin, imagining the season as a destination in its own right, a physical island off the coast.

Though Sweden’s capital city spans 14 islands, Stockholm’s archipelago is a smattering of some 30,000 islands, islets and outcroppings that unfurl into the Baltic Sea. It seems possible to spend years exploring the rocky, forested islands, many peppered with red buildings that pop against the pines.

It’s the stuff of vintage-shop postcards: traditional wood boats tethered to sun-bleached docks, red cottages trimmed with white, swans dozing in the afternoon sun. On our way to the ferry earlier that day, my friend and I dropped by the 19th-century Östermalm food market, filling a bag with creamy hushållsost cheese, fresh strawberries, smoked trout and seafood salad. We disembarked, made our way to a windswept promontory and were picnicking within the hour.

While rising temperatures have made summers unbearable in so many popular summertime destinations, Sweden remains a mild and unfussy option. Before steam-powered ships and electric ferries, islands such as Fjäderholmarna were accessible by a water-taxi system helmed by the so-called rowing women of Stockholm, roddarmadams, famed for their sharp tongues, strength and speed.

The main island, Stora Fjäderholmen, is small enough to circumnavigate in an hour on foot—even while stopping to shop at Rock the Forge, a metalsmith with an array of handmade jewelry, and perusing the eclectic mix of glasswares and ceramics at the seasonal Art Village. You could easily fill a day working your way through the cafés and restaurants, or taking a running jump from the craggy shore into cool, clear waters.

The archipelago offers a dizzying array of destinations, including Sandhamn and the 70 islands of Vaxholm, connected by public ferries and private boat operators. For a longer trip, take a three-hour ferry to Gotland, with its medieval city Visby, rich in Viking history.

Whether you tackle it over multiple trips or spend two weeks seeing it end to end, take advantage of the long, languid days and seemingly endless light to explore the islands—from Arholma, the northernmost in the archipelago, and most of which is covered with a nature reserve, to Svartsö, which has a general store, two restaurants and a heritage center, making it outright crowded by comparison.

Roam the Stockholm Archipelago Trail

Spanning nearly two dozen islands and some 170 miles, the newly opened Stockholm Archipelago Trail encourages travelers to venture beyond Sweden’s busy marinas and crowded town squares. It’s a sentiment deeply enshrined in Swedish culture; their right-to-roam policy, or allemansrätten, permits people unfettered access to nature—even privately owned land—for recreational activities. As a result, you can also backpack and camp anywhere you’d like along the trail, though hotels, B&Bs and other types of accommodations are also available.

Relax on the Söderström River 

Even travelers who choose to stay in the city can spend their days on the water. Stockholm’s Söderström river offers self-service kayak rentals and sightseeing tours. For a more low-key experience, head to any of the city’s saunas, or bastus. At Bastun på Eden, we rotated between sweat sessions and refreshing bay swims. On Södermalm, the members-only Tanto Bastu has drop-in hours for visitors. This sauna floats on a wooden pontoon—perfect for quick river dips.

Where to Stay

Consider these hotels your Stockholm home base. Chase Sapphire Reserve cardmembers earn 3 points per dollar and receive premium benefits when booking through members of The Edit by Chase Travel, a hand-picked collection of luxury hotels.

At Six
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In Stockholm’s business district, an eight-foot-tall marble sculpture of a head emerges from the grand staircase. Many such artworks lend the property a connoisseur’s feel. Breakfast includes European classics and matcha overnight oats.

Grand Hôtel Stockholm
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The Cadier Bar at the Grand Hotel Stockholm.

Overlooking Stockholm’s old town and waterfront, this historic 19th-century property hosted the first-ever Nobel Prize banquet.

Ett Hem

The lounge at Ett Hem.

In the upscale Lärkstaden neighborhood, this hotel has a courtyard garden that’s perfect for an afternoon fika. The kitchen serves both guests and visitors if an overnight stay isn’t possible.

When to Go

Spring and summer in Sweden are replete with celebrations. (Plan accordingly: crowds and closures during certain holidays could affect travel plans.) Here’s what’s on the calendar during those sun-soaked midyear months—and how you can get in on the fun.

Valborg Night and May Day

On the last day of April, many Swedes send off spring and usher in summer with singing, bonfires and late-night parties. The first of May has been a national holiday since 1939, marked by parades, outdoor festivals and a lazy day off.

Midsommar

Few places celebrate summer’s arrival with as much zeal as Sweden, which marks the longest day of the year (in late June) with a Midsommar national holiday. With more than 18 hours of light, the solstice is observed with yard games and an extensive smorgasbord (best devoured in a flower crown), plus bonfires that keep the party going past dusk.

Stora Fjäderholmen

At summer’s end, crayfish harvesting season is celebrated with raucous outdoor parties. Expect novelty hats, bibs, singing, schnapps and platters of cold crayfish. Skål!