NIHI Sumba: Barefoot Luxury on An Island Far, Far Away

“Welcome to the Edge of Wildness,” reads the wooden signpost that greets you upon arrival at NIHI Sumba’s gates. It’s an apt description of the sweeping villa estates and jumbled hibiscus gardens that fan out ahead, a barefoot-luxe bubble on the southwestern fringe of still-wild Sumba, less than a two-hour flight—yet seemingly a world away—from Bali’s tourist throngs. 

Occy’s Left, one of Asia’s most coveted wave breaks, erupts in barrels behind the resort, drawing surfers from around the globe. But NIHI is much more than a gussied-up surf camp. Think of it as a choose-your-own adventure: You can join seasoned pros on spearfishing trips, dive deep into New Age wellness (think underwater meditation, equine therapy and visiting breathwork gurus) or go on horseback trips through Sumba’s impossibly green countryside, passing small villages along the way.

And if you wish to do nothing but sip pineapple juleps by your pool—yes, your pool—well, there’s no better spot for that, too.

It all started with a search for the perfect wave. After combing through much of Indonesia’s coastline, American surfer Claude Graves and his wife, Petra, found themselves on Sumba’s remote Nihiwatu Beach in the late ’80s, where they pitched up a humble surf lodge. Word got out, and in 2012, entrepreneur Christopher Burch took over the reins, partnering with hotelier James McBride to smarten up the resort with private pools, butler service (NIHI calls them kaptens) and a new name: NIHI Sumba.

Today, NIHI almost feels like a tropical mirage. You can spot sandalwood ponies galloping through the waves at sunrise and aimlessly stroll through lush gardens exploding with frangipani and bougainvillea. Not a single other building lines the 1.5-mile beach, which gives the whole place a private-island vibe.

Two toes-in-the-sand restaurants, Ombak and Nio Beach Club, pair everything from wood-fired pizzas to family-style Sumbanese meals with tip-top wine lists, while Kaboku, the elegant omakase sushi counter, looks like something plucked straight from Okinawa. And don’t be surprised if you bump into a celebrity or two: this highflier hideaway has welcomed everyone from the Beckhams to Jennifer Lawrence.

Beyond the roving beach horses, it’s easy to see what draws them here. The villas, many with peaked thatch roofs typical of Sumba’s vernacular, can either be booked individually or grouped together into estates to create your own ultra-private hideout. They have infinity pools, outdoor bathrooms with soaking tubs and sprawling gardens shaded by towering palms. Most open to breezy dining areas, where your kapten can arrange candlelit dinners, and all have pinch-me views out over the Indian Ocean.

But for all the extravagant trappings and expected mod cons, the freewheeling spirit of the Graveses’ original ramshackle beach camp still lives on. This is where the bigwigs of Wall Street and Palo Alto come to let their hair down in nothing but flip-flops and bathing suits. You’ll find them bobbing on surfboards in the waves as their partners look on from beneath candy-colored umbrellas by the pool and their kids frolic on the beach, building impressive sandcastles. At sunset, everyone gathers to talk shop and Burning Man over frosty Bintang beers at the Boathouse Bar, likely hatching plans with newfound friends to all return at the same time next summer.

The Room

Scattered across the sloping hillside, NIHI’s 28 villas vary in size, including snug one-bedroom cottages and a breezy three-bedroom compound designed like plush tree houses. They all come with private pools and lots of outdoor space, but each gives a different interpretation of NIHI’s barefoot-luxe style. Some spin Sumba’s trademark ikat tapestries and teakwood furnishings into a sleek, midcentury modern–tinged design, while others riff on the island’s ancient crafts tradition with hand-carved wooden pillars, tribal basketry and roofs woven from alang-alang grass.

This breadth of offerings means there’s a villa to match every vibe. Take over the four-bedroom Wamoro Estate if you’re visiting with a big crew, or the stunning two-bedroom Raja Mandaka villa (part of Burch’s private estate) if you have teens in tow. The single-story Lulu Amahu one-bedroom villa, which has a separate living room that can transform into a kids’ bedroom, is a great option for families with younger children, while honeymooners will appreciate the dreamy bathtubs and privacy any of the Marangga villas offer (your kapten can cover the cliffside bale with a mosquito net, so you can sleep under a star-spangled sky). Mandaka Sumba House is a perfect all-rounder, and the sunset views from its balcony bathtub are, simply put, phenomenal.

The Features

Lay back and let the professionals at NIHIoka spa dissolve all of your worries—or, at least, your knots.

Don’t miss: A visit to the Sumba Foundation, the charity the Graves family founded when they opened the resort. On a 2.5-hour tour of the headquarters and a nearby school or clinic, you’ll see how NIHI and its guests have helped fund water wells, malaria clinics and educational projects. 

Favorite features: The Spa Safari, which is NIHI’s showpiece—for good reason. Bookable as a half-day, full-day or overnight adventure, your trip kicks off with a two-hour hike through Sumba’s undulating rice fields, past grazing water buffalo and waving kids. Upon arrival at NIHIoka Beach, a private cove some 3 miles east of the main resort, you’re welcomed with either breakfast or lunch and cold coconuts, after which you can choose as many herbal body wraps, sea-salt face scrubs and reflexology rubdowns as you can fit within the duration of your visit.

Can’t stop thinking about: The Equine Connection session, part of the hotel’s equine therapy program, at the Sandalwood Stables, which involved breathwork exercises, grooming and learning to lead one of NIHI’s horses. There was something deeply therapeutic about sharing one-on-one time with such a gentle animal.

The Lowdown

Pick up small, suitcase-friendly goods such as clay statues and ikat throws at the Sumba Market boutique, located by the lobby.

What’s everyone wearing? The best part about NIHI’s dress code is that there isn’t one. Away from their buttoned-up day jobs, you’ll find the resort’s ritzy regulars in fraying, sun-bleached tees, which are topped off with mussed-up, salt-frizzled heads of hair. 

What you'll wish you could bring home with you: Each villa has a gorgeous collection of Sumbanese tribal artifacts, from elaborate necklaces with seashells and feathers to antique daggers with leather handles and wooden beads. The Sumba Market boutique by the lobby sells a few smaller options such as clay statues and ikat throws, but ask your kapten for sourcing recommendations if you’re on the lookout for more substantial stuff.

The family-friendly amenity that’s really for the parents: Hidden like a hobbit house at the jungled back of the resort, Chris & Charly’s Chocolate Factory isn’t just a whimsical spot to get little fingers dirty during a chocolate-making workshop (while you can look forward to the lip-smacking fruits of their labor), but also a great way to buy some parental private time, as NIHI lacks a kids club.

What are you packing? The resort has a few surfboards for rent and horse-riding boots to borrow, but if you’re planning an active stay and are picky about your gear, it’s wise to bring your own. Most surfboards will fit the flight from Bali to Sumba as excess luggage, but check ahead for a list of the precise requirements. At the very least, make sure you pack long pants for rides and sturdy shoes for hiking.

The can’t-miss sight: Compared to the tourist-thronged waterfalls and ornate temples of Bali, Sumba still feels untouched by overtourism. For first-timers, a guided visit to one of the nearby Marapu (the local religion) villages is a great way to learn more about the island’s culture.

“Welcome to the Edge of Wildness,” reads the wooden signpost that greets you upon arrival at NIHI Sumba’s gates.

Fast Facts

• Number of rooms: 28
• Number of pools: 2
• Fitness center? Yes
• Spa? Yes
• Salon? No
• Number of bars/restaurants: 4
• 24-hour room service? No; room service is available from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.
• Childcare and kids club? There’s no kids club, but babysitters are available for a fee.